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My name is Bruno Alonzo, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned from living by the ocean, it’s that surfing is not just a sport — it’s a way of understanding life.
Today I want to share, from my own experience, how the wave season began and what it felt like in Olón, Ecuador. Not only from the perspective of surfing, but from everything that happened around it: the energy of the town, the people, the trips, the connections, and those moments that made many want to stay — or come back again and again.
When We Know the Season Is About to Begin
Every time we said, “high season is coming,” it wasn’t just a phrase—it was something you could feel.
Everything started to change.
The weather became warmer, the days got longer, the sunrises began to paint the sky with more intense colors, and the sunsets were simply unmatched. There was a special light in Olón during that time, a light that made you wake up earlier and stay longer by the ocean.
But it wasn’t just the weather.
It was the energy.
The whole town began to move. Businesses prepared themselves, renewed, expanded. New projects were born, others grew. The streets were being restored, as if everything was aligning to welcome something big.
And that “something” was people.
Friends started arriving from all over the world. Some came for the first time, full of curiosity and excitement. Others returned because they had already experienced what it meant to be here.
Many of them had been students—people who came to learn Spanish or surf… and ended up connecting with something much deeper.
The Ocean Changed Too
While all of this was happening on land, the ocean was transforming as well.
For those of us who love surfing, this was the most anticipated time of the year. Waves began to appear more frequently, with better shape and more consistency. They weren’t always big, but they were cleaner, more organized, more “surfable.”
And that’s what made Olón special.
It didn’t matter if you were just starting or already experienced—this beach offered something for everyone.
A long, open beach connected to different sections of the coast. Soft waves ideal for learning, and faster sections for those looking to improve their technique.
We were also close to incredible destinations like La Rinconada and Montañita, and for those who wanted to explore further, Ayampe almost always offered a bit more size.
How the Season Really Begins: A Unique Tradition
For us, the season didn’t start in January—it started on December 31st.
At 11:50 PM, we were already ready.
While all of Ecuador celebrated New Year’s Eve by burning “monigotes,” something special happened in Olón.
Surfers gathered on the beach. Bonfires lit up the sand, the monigotes burned, people celebrated—and we ran toward the ocean.
Literally.
We circled the bonfires and entered the water just before midnight. The idea was simple, yet powerful: to catch the last wave of the year and the first of the new one.
It was a symbolic act, but also deeply emotional.
We were in the ocean with friends, hearing fireworks, feeling the energy of a new beginning. Some dressed in white, others laughing, others simply floating and looking at the sky.
It was a way of saying:
“May this year be full of good waves, good people, and great moments.”
And just like that, everything began.
The First Days: Small Waves, Big Moments
The first days of January didn’t bring the best waves. Many times they were small… but that stopped mattering.
Because those days were for reconnecting.
To surf without pressure. To enjoy the water, the sun, and friends. They were days of long sunsets, post-surf conversations, laughter, and plans that slowly started to take shape.
That year, for example, we received a visit from a great friend, Cam Cameron, from Canada—our paddleboard champion friend. He came to surf, explore, and live the full experience.
We went looking for waves, went fishing by boat to Isla de los Ahorcados, had barbecues with friends, hiked up Cerro Olón, skated, and enjoyed every adventure.
And that was something that kept repeating:
People didn’t come just for the surf—they came for everything around it.
Surf Trips: The Search for Waves
When the waves in Olón were small, we knew there was one solution: move.
On January 4th, we did our first surf trip of the year to Ayampe. We went full of energy. Even though conditions weren’t perfect, we found more size than in Olón—and that was enough.
Because in the end, it wasn’t just about the wave—it was about sharing the moment.
Getting on a motorcycle or in a car, traveling along the Ruta del Spondylus, watching how the landscape changed, arriving at a new beach, and entering the water with the same excitement as always.
These trips were key. Both friends and students enjoyed discovering new places and facing different conditions.
Surfing in different beaches helped them understand the ocean better, adapt to different types of breaks, and gradually build confidence.
More than improving technique, it was a process that transformed the way they saw the ocean.
When Conditions Start to Improve
Little by little, the ocean began to organize itself.
I clearly remember February 5th.
The waves still weren’t big, but something had changed. They looked cleaner, more defined. In the mornings, the ocean was glassy and perfect.
And that marked an important transition: the real season had begun. Mornings became the best part of the day—light winds, early sun, and warm water. Ideal conditions for surfing barrels.
Surfers started getting their boards ready and organizing their day to get in the water early. Whether it was low tide or high tide, there were good conditions almost all day to keep surfing.
It was also the time to look for the most sensitive points, depending on the swell—whether it was coming from the north or the south.
Why Come to Olón During Wave Season?
There’s something many people don’t understand at first: you don’t need big waves to learn and enjoy the season.
In fact, it’s the opposite.
For much of this time, conditions give us soft waves, from small to medium size. They are perfect for beginner and intermediate surfers, allowing them to practice safely and progress step by step.
But the season also brings bigger swells, ideal for those looking for more challenges—trying more radical maneuvers, surfing larger waves, and even finding barrels.
When the waves get too big, it can be harder to surf at a beach break. That’s why, during big swells, many surfers move to spots like La Entrada or La Rinconada.
What’s incredible about these places is that even with bigger waves, they still offer a sense of confidence and control.
These conditions allow you to:
- Practice your takeoff without pressure
- Improve your balance
- Learn how to read waves better
- Build confidence progressively
- And most importantly: enjoy
Because when you’re having fun, you learn faster.
In Olón, you can go from never touching a surfboard… to riding your first green waves in just a few days.
And that changes everything.
More Than Surf: The Full Experience
What truly makes the season in Olón special is that surfing is just one part of it all.
Here you can:
- Surf in the morning
- Take Spanish classes in the afternoon
- Explore waterfalls in the mountains
- Go on moto trips along the coastal range
- Eat incredible local food
- Connect with people from all over the world
It’s a unique combination—and that’s what makes people come back.
Because they didn’t just learn how to surf… they lived something different.
The Community: The True Heart of Olón
If there was one thing that defined this season, it wasn’t just the waves.
It was the people.
Locals, travelers, students, returning friends—everyone became part of something.
A real community was created.
Greetings in the streets, meetings in the ocean, shared sessions, stories, laughter, parties—and without even realizing it, you became part of it all.
Why Come to Olón During Wave Season?
If you were thinking about traveling, learning to surf, or simply living something different, here are some clear reasons:
1. Waves for All Levels
From beginners to advanced surfers. Our surf lessons adapted to each person’s learning pace. We understood their fears and gradually built confidence in the water.
Depending on experience, we surfed at different tides.
Low tide was ideal for beginners: learning to stand up, understanding technique, and finding balance on the board. Catching a whitewater wave, standing up, and feeling that first connection with the ocean was both fun and exciting.
As surfers gained confidence, they began surfing at mid and high tide—where they started riding green waves.
Each attempt became an opportunity to better understand timing, power, and wave direction.
Olón offered the perfect conditions for this process to be progressive, natural, and above all, enjoyable.
2. Ideal Weather
We had sun, warmth, and pleasant water almost every day.
Mornings gave us incredible conditions, and afternoons ended with sunsets that felt unreal.
During the few rainy moments, the landscape transformed completely: rainbows appeared in the mist, the ocean calmed down with long lulls that invited you to pause and observe, and moonrises became simply magical.
But beyond the weather, there was something hard to explain: the energy.
Long days, good vibes in the water, spontaneous encounters with other surfers, and that feeling of freedom that only the ocean can give.
It was the kind of routine you don’t get tired of—you live it, enjoy it, and want to repeat it.
3. Strategic Location
Olón proved to have a privileged location, surrounded by multiple surf spots.
Not only did our school organize trips, but friends and local surfers constantly got together to plan outings in search of better conditions.
To the south, we explored:
Montañita, Playa Bruja, Coito, Capaes, and Castillo.
To the north:
La Entrada, La Rinconada, Ayampe, La Patera, Las Tunas, and San Mateo.
Each of these places offered something different—not just because of wave quality, but because of the full experience: the people, the food, the culture, and the unique vibe of each destination.
And This Was Just the Beginning…
The season wasn’t just about surfing.
It was a collection of moments, lessons, and connections that stayed with everyone who experienced it.
The waves came, yes—but so did stories.
People met, experiences transformed them, memories were created that are still alive today.
And even though that season is now behind us, one thing is certain:
The ocean never stops calling.
🌊 New waves will break again
🌿 New people will arrive
🔥 New stories will begin
And we’ll be here, ready to live it all over again.
Would you like to be part of the next one?
If you’ve ever felt curious about surfing, traveling, or living something that truly takes you out of your routine—this is your moment.
✨ Message us and come discover it for yourself.
Because in the end…
it’s not just about coming.
It’s about feeling it.
